With a tailored jacket, fit is everything. So when shopping for a new blazer, it’s important to get it right. But what are the things of you should be looking out for? To help us answer that question, sartorial whiz Kirk Miller of Miller’s Oath (a bespoke tailor in NYC) stopped by to give Affinity an exclusive no nonsense guide to the perfect fit.
kirk's quick tips
1. Shoulders - Does the jacket fit cleanly across the shoulders? It should not stick out too far, nor fit too snugly.
2. Armholes - Should be comfortable--they can be snug, but should not limit movement, or dig in at all.
3. Shape - This will be the area that can most easily be altered (and should be!). The jacket should not pull at the button when buttoned--but should give the wearer a nice shape. And ideally there should be space between the body and the arms when the jacket is buttoned.
4. Length - Though largely to the wearer’s preference, this is an important detail, and should be calculated based on visual proportion. For example, shorter women should try to have something that isn’t too long.
5. Sleeve Length - Women can play with sleeve length, based on fashions and preferences. Though one hard-and-fast rule: sleeves should NOT be too long. Like shape, sleeve length is also an easy fix by a local tailor and will make a jacket feel way more fitted. A good rule of thumb is five inches from the base of the thumb to the sleeve.
6. Bust - Very important: Lapels should lay flat and not fold or break. If you need more room in the chest, go up a size. Then have a tailor alter the waist for the shape.
Photo Credit: Miller photographed at Miller’s Oath in New York City by The Sartorialist.